Troubleshooting and Repair of an Energy Smart® Electric Water
The Energy Smart® Control Board has a flashing LED light which
flashes trouble codes. The Installation Instructions have a
Diagnostic Code Chart and a Troubleshooting Chart you can use to
identify and correct problems.
Checking for Electrical Power
If the LED light on the Control Board is not on, check to make
sure the unit is getting electrical power. You can check for power
with a simple "circuit tester" or volt meter.
To check for power, turn the circuit breaker marked "water
heater" off (or remove fuses). Remove the cover on the Energy
Smart® Control Board. Identify the power supply wires. Turn the
circuit breaker back on and check for power.
If the Control Board it is not getting the power, there are
probably issues with your home's electrical system (bad wiring,
blown fuses or tripped circuit breaker). If power is present, use a
volt meter and confirm that the voltage is correct. The rating
plate on the water heater specifies the required voltage. Usually,
this is 240 V. If power is not present or the voltage is wrong, a
qualified electrician may be needed to fix your electrical problem.
Turn the circuit breaker off, and replace the plastic cover.
If the Control Board is getting electrical power (and correct
voltage) but the Diagnostic Light is not lit, the Control Board
should be replaced.
Replacing the Control Board
The Control Board comes with detailed printed instructions.
Before beginning, read and follow the printed instructions (which
may contain updated information and model-specific
Watch the Video
"Replacing the Control Board"
IMPORTANT - Read and follow the printed
Installation Instructions that came with your water heater. The
printed Instructions and product labels contain model-specific
information, important warnings and safety notices. If you lack the
necessary skills to install, troubleshoot or repair the water
heater, get help from a qualified person.
Some Hot Water, but Not Enough (New Installation)
If a new water heater produces some hot water, but not as much
as you're used to or not as much as you need, the thermostats may
need adjusting. The Installation Manual has temperature adjustment
instructions for your unit as well as important safety information
about scalding. Water heater manufacturers recommend a temperature
setting of no higher than 120ºF. Higher temperatures increase the
risk of scalding injuries. Read and follow the temperature
adjustment instructions and safety notices in the Installation
Manual that came with your new water heater. Remember, higher
temperatures (above 120ºF) can cause serious injuries.
With a new water heater, most leaks are caused by leaking
connections at the hot water outlet or cold water inlet.
Occasionally, leaks can be found coming from a fitting (such as
around the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve) or around one of
the heating elements. Leaking fittings can often be tightened or
repaired. It is extremely rare for a new tank to leak.
If drips are noticed coming from the discharge pipe of the
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve, the home's water pressure
may be too high or a thermal expansion tank may be needed.
Note - If large quantities of hot
water are coming from the discharge pipe, turn electrical power off
and consult a qualified technician. Do not cap or plug the
Check your home's water pressure with a gauge. The recommended
water pressure is 50 to 60 PSIG. If the pressure is higher than
that, install a Pressure Regulating Valve (or adjust your existing
pressure regulating valve if you have one). For water pressure
issues, consult your local water utility or a qualified plumber.
Most plumbing codes require a Pressure Regulating Valve if the
water pressure is above 80 PSIG.
Thermal Expansion Tank
When water is heated, it expands. In older homes, the expanded
water pushed back into the water main. Today, most homes have
backflow prevention valves which stop the water in your home from
reentering the water supply. These valves can be inside water
softeners, pressure regulating valves or the water meter itself.
Backflow prevention valves (also known as "check valves") prevent
the expanded water from reentering the water main. Since the
expanded water now has nowhere to go, the water pressure in the
house's pipes can increase dramatically, often to the point where
the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve discharge pipe drips. A
thermal expansion tank has an internal air bladder which can absorb
the expanded water, protecting plumbing, appliances and the water
heater. For these reasons, most homes now need a thermal expansion
tank (and a properly adjusted pressure regulating valve). Not
having a thermal expansion tank is the most common reason for a
dripping discharge pipe.
Watch the Video
"Replacing the Thermal Expansion Tank"
WARNING! Do Not Cap or Plug the Temperature and Pressure
Relief Valve Discharge Pipe. Explosion Hazard.